The Deadliest Peak: Navigating Snow, Ice, and Exposure on Longs Peak

Trip Report 6/13/26

Rocky Mountain National Park

Longs Peak was the absolute cherry on top of a fantastic week of running 14ers. Joined by my good friend Luke, we ascended the Keyhole Route to the summit, a line that takes you on a full 360-degree tour of the mountain with everything from smooth granite scrambling to ice and snow crossings over big exposure. Longs is notorious for being the deadliest peak in Colorado, claiming over 70 lives since the 1800s. Even the Keyhole, which is the most popular route on the mountain, required an outsized effort compared to some of the more pedestrian walk-up summits in the Front Range.

What really stood out today was the sheer volume of snow still present on most of the upper route. Despite Colorado experiencing one of its worst winter snowpacks on record, there was still plenty of winter left up high. The massive couloir on the west side known as the Trough was a completely frozen snow climb, and the final Homestretch scramble to the summit was slick with significant verglas—thin ribbons of ice that freeze overnight when afternoon snowmelt seeps across the rock. It’s incredibly hard to see, and it demands your full attention.

The day started around 5:00 a.m. at the Longs Peak trailhead. The Front Range granite is impressive, but it requires an earlier morning than usual just to ensure a parking spot. The main lot was already full when we arrived. Once on the trail,the route is a bit inefficient on the way up to the Boulder Field; the switchbacks are low-angle and the trail contours around unnecessarily. We stuck strictly to the route and avoided shortcutting, treating it as a scenic approach instead of the usual vertical grind found on most of the peaks.

Sunrise on the hike up was absolutely top-notch, as an orange glow graced the protruding East Face and the sheer wall of the Diamond. Once we hit the Boulder Field below the Keyhole, the usual biting wind picked up. We bundled up, took out our ice axes, and passed through the Keyhole onto the cold, shadow-heavy northwest side of the mountain. The initial traverse on the Ledges had a mix of snow, ice, and significant exposure, proving to be the most consequential section of the entire day.

Climbing the trough on longs peak — Climbing the Trough

At the base of the Trough, I put on micro-spikes, and we climbed a solid boot-pack left by prior climbers all the way up to the Narrows. As we turned the corner out of the Trough, the spikes came off. The Narrows were completely dry, and the sun finally reappeared just as we began climbing onto the Homestretch, where we carefully picked our way past the hidden patches of verglas. There was a sense of relief as the route dried up and the warm sun was a welcome feeling.

The summit was beautiful—tame winds, outstanding views, and a massive, flat surface to enjoy. We snapped some photos, peered over the edge of several different aspects, and started the return trip, which is a direct retrace of the route. The single mile from the Keyhole to the summit is short on paper, but it required highly deliberate movement and careful footsteps.

As we contoured back toward the Keyhole, the day's main crowds were beginning their climb. Almost every party inquired about the conditions above, and the question of the day was exactly when to put on micro-spikes. Our answer was that it varied on your comfort level. It was doable without them, but significantly safer with them. The oncoming climbers seemed enlightened and encouraged by the beta, and the sense of common purpose on the mountain was incredibly strong. The positivity and affirmation went a long way for people, and the culture out there was outstanding.

Summit view on longs peak — Summit Longs Peak

The descent from the Boulder Field grew increasingly busy as the first major summer weekend of the national park season got underway. The temperature climbed rapidly as we dropped, and the final jog back to the parking lot felt like mid-summer.

This was a really special day shared with Luke and the perfect way to finish a week of peak-bagging in Colorado. I am unsure when I will return to continue the 14er quest, but I take comfort in knowing how meaningful the journey has been so far. With another 40 peaks left on the list, it's clear there is a lifetime of exploration left to go.

Longs peak keyhole route map — Longs Peak Map

🗺️ Line of Travel:

Longs Peak Trailhead ➔ East Longs Peak Trail ➔ The Boulder Field ➔ The Keyhole ➔ The Ledges ➔ The Trough ➔ Narrows ➔ The Homestretch ➔ Summit (14,255) ➔ Retrace Route

📍Beta:

Even in low-snow years, the high-altitude, shaded sections of Longs Peak hold ice well into the summer. The Trough can remain a frozen snow climb, and the Homestretch is highly prone to morning verglas. Micro-spikes and an ice axe are strongly recommended for early-season ascents.